Method of and last for making turned shoes



March 27, 1928.

J. EDWARDS METHOD OF AND LAST FOR MAKING TURNED SHOES Filed Sept. 1925 2 Sheets-Sheet '1 Match 27; 1928.

J. EDWARDS METHOD OF AND LAST FOR MAKING TURNED SHOES Filed Sept 1925 ZSheets-Sneet 2 Patented Mar. 27, 1928.

UNITED STATEfi JAMES EDWARDS, or PNILADELPHIA, rnNNsYLvANIA. I

mnrnon or AND LAST non MAKING TURNED snons.

Application filed September 23, 1925. Serial No. 58,052.

My invention relates to the manufacture of turned shoes, and more particularly to a method of securing the sole to the upper, and to means for carrying the method into effect.

Turned shoes differ from welt and other types, in that they are lighter and more flexible because they have but a single thin layer of sole stitched directly to the upper.

In making turned shoes,'the usual plan has been to make the lining of the upper larger than the outside material in order that when turned, the outside material will be free of wrinkles. The lining, being'larger than the outside material, does not fit when the shoe is turned right side out and, unless the slack is taken up, the lining wrinkles and causes serious discomfort to the wearer. The usual method of taking up the slack in the lining is to fold it into a single plait at the rear seam of the shoe. This plait is always objectionable and, unless the workman performs the folding operation with great skill- I and care, the lining does not fit smoothly and the shoe is defective.

The objects of my invention are to provide a method of making turned shoes whereby the plait at the rear of the shoe is dispensed with and the lining made to fit smoothly, and to provide means for carrying the method into effect.

These objects, and other advantageous ends which will be described hereinafter, I attain in the following manner, reference being had to the accompanying drawings in which a Figure 1 is a side elevation of a last constructed in accordance'with' my invention, showing it in inverted position asapplied to a standard,

Figure 2 a rear end view of the last,

Figure 3 a plan view of the last,

Figure 4 a bottom plan view of an upper made in accordance with my invention showing it inside out,

Figure 5 a like view right side out, V

Figure 6 a plan view of the upper shown in Figure 4, illustrating its front part as temporarily fastened to a sole and the last,

Figure 7 a section on line 77 of Figure 6,

Figure 8 a fragmentary section through the rear part of a shoe made in accordance with my invention, and

Figure 9 a like view of the rear part of a shoe made according to the old method.

For convenience, the term upper will be showing the upper primary lasting the sole 7 is term used as including both vamp and quarter and both outer material and lining, and the term leather will be used-as designating the outside material whether that material be of leather or fabric.

In carrying my invention into effect, the

lining is made to smoothly and accurately fit the leather. This would cause the leather -to wrinkle when the upper isturned inside out for lasting and the lasting could not be properly effected unless means were provided for taking up the slack in the leather and releasing that slack when the partsare againreversed. To accomplish this, I use a primary last which conforms in shape with the standard last for the required size of shoe except that the heel is shorter and is provided with a vertical groove of sufiicient depth to receive the slack in the leather.

The sole is then secured to the last in the usual manner but with its heel projecting loosely and somewhat beyond the heel of the last. The upper is'then smoothly but temporarily secured to the sole and last in the usual manner but with the slack in the leather disposed in the groove. The stitching is then performed in the usual way, the temporary moved, the partiallymade shoe turned right side out, then placed upon a standardlast and finished in the usual manner. This last takes up the slack which was gathered in the groove of the primary lastand a shoe is produced with a perfectly fitting lining and which is free from taking up slack. V

In the drawings, 1 indicates a last, hereinafter called the primarylast, having the usual socket 2 adapted to fit a standard 3 to holdthe last in position when fitting'the' upper thereon. This last is of standard shape and dimensions for the required size of shoe except that its heel is shorter and is provided with a groove 4, preferably vertical and midway transversely of the heel. 'A lining 5 is made to smoothly and accurately fit the'leather 6 when the upper is right side out. The lining being slightly smaller than the leather, turning the upper inside out will cause the leather to wrinkle but with a primary last so constructed, the lasting may be so effected as to leave both the lining and the leather perfectly smooth except for a fold in the leather taking into groove 4. For the orarilv secured to the primary last toy-tacks at with and dimensions fastenlngs removed, the last reany pro ection due to its heel loosely extending somewhat beyond the heel of the last. The reversed upper is then temporarily secured to the sole and the last by tacks, as shown in Figure 6, and the stitching performed in the usual Way. The tacks are then withdrawn, the last removed, the partly constructed shoe turned right side out and placed upon a standard last which will take up the slack in the leather. The shoe is then finished inthe usual manner.

The primary last should be of a length suflicient to insure that the lining when lasted thereon, will'be of the precise dimensions requirec for the finished shoe. 1 find that this result may be attained by making the primary lasts approximately one and a with the hitherto approved practice,

fourth sizes shorter than the standard last.

The groove in the heel should be sufficiently large to freely take in whatever slack there may be in the leather.

In Figure 9, I have shown a section of the heel of-a turned shoe, made in accordance in which is indicated the plait into which the slack of the lining is folded.

My invention dispenses with the necessity of carefulfolding, or of any folding-of aslack, dispenses with the the inner heel of the due to the smooth lin- Letters Patent is 1. A'method of making'turnedshoes consisting in making an upper with a lining 'fit ting V the leather; reversing the upper;

temporarily securing a sole and the reversed upper to a last having space in its heel to receive the slack in the leather; stitching the upper to the sole; removing the last, and finishing the shoe on a standard last.

2. A method of making turned shoes con sisting in making an upper with a lining fitting the leather; reversing the upper; temporarily s ecuring'a sole and the reversed upper to a last of the proper standard. size and form butshorter at the heel than the standard last and having a grooved heel; gathering the slack in the leather into the groovein the heel; stitching the upperto the sole; removing the last, and finishing the shoe on a standard last.

8. A method of making turned shoes consisting in making an upper with a lining fitting the leather; reversing the upper; temporarily securing a sole and the reversed upper to a last of the proper standard size and'form but shorter at the heel than the standard last and having a groovedheel with the sole extending loosely beyondthe heel of the last; gathering the slack in the upper into the groove in the heel; stitching the upper to the sole; removing the last, and finishing the shoe on a standard last.

4. A primary last for turned shoes, having, except as to its heel, the form'and. dimensions of the standard last but having its heel shorter than that of the standard last to provide space for taking up slack.

last for turned shoes, hav

5. A. primary to its heel, the form and ing, except as dimensions of the standard last but having" its heel shorter than that of the standard last and provided with a groove adapted to receive slack.

6( A' primary last for turned shoes, having, except as to its heel, the form and dimensions of'the standard'last but having its heel shorter than that of the standard last and provided with a centralvertical groove adapted to receive slack.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

JAMES EDWARDS. 

